Days 26-27: Nebraska! Hot — and bothered

Day 26
Destination: Crawford, Nebraska
Friday’s mileage: 57. Total: 1,469

The route through Wyoming.

Today was another milestone day. We left Wyoming and headed into Nebraska. That’s our fourth state. That might not seem like much, but when you’re crossing horizontal states on a bike, it feels pretty significant.

So, let’s do an accounting. I’ve biked for 24 out of these past 26 days. I’ve climbed in the neighborhood of 60,000 vertical feet. The highest elevation I’ve reached was at the Continental Divide in Wyoming – 9,500-plus. The hardest climb was the Teton Pass, which topped out at 8,500 feet but was a beast of 10-14 percent incline. We’ve camped the past two nights, ending up Friday night in Fort Robinson, on the western edge of Crawford, Nebraska.

Hello, Nebraska! State No. 4 on this great ride.

Let me say a few words about Nebraska. As far as most of us know, at least those of us who have crossed Nebraska on I-80, it’s a flat, corn-belt state that you hope to speed through on your way to Colorado. May I offer an alternative route? Jump on “historic HWY 20” and travel through northwest Nebraska. You’ll be treated to rolling hills accented by jagged rock formations and the wild and fabulous Toadstool National Geologic Park in Harrison.

It seems to be horse country. And cattle country, for sure. But there are some beautiful places that deserve further exploration at some future date. It’s really quite beautiful.

We camped in the equestrian section of Fort Robinson State Park, a 22,000-acre  complex. We were the non-equestrians back in that part of the park, but we had a nice shady spot with a beautiful view of the Pine Ridge bluffs surrounding the area. We enjoyed a solid breeze on the hot, hot afternoon (temps rose to the mid-90s by the time the sun started to set). And the night was cool and comfortable.

One more thing. When we left Lusk, Wyoming, we passed through Van Tassel just before the border with Nebraska. Van Tassel (population 15!!!) is the least populous town in the least populous county in the least populous state of the U.S.

As I started Friday morning, I sprinted to the border 24 miles away. I hustled through “downtown” Lusk, hit Hwy. 20 and started flying. I dominated the rolling hills on the shoulder-less road but lightly traveled road. I was passed by a few cars and a few semis, who all gave me plenty of room. I averaged just under 25 mph for that hour. It was fun. I felt great. I slowed down a little in Nebraska, but that’s OK. I’ve got time. I have to keep reminding myself that it’s the journey, not the destination that counts.

Larry Davis gave both Melody and me a little pep talk before we headed off to Nebraska.

When we arrived in Van Tassel, I stopped at a historical marker and met Larry Davis. He was on his way home to Southern California after an 8,000-mile driving trip. He gave me a ton of positive vibes about the trip and cheered me on. He talked about how important the natural world is to him and how much he enjoyed seeing all manner of nature – in the Northwest and along the Trans Canadian highway – during his trip. That’s what gets him fired up. What gets me fired up? Meeting people like Larry. It’s been a good ride.

Day 27
Destination: Rushville, Nebraska
Saturday’s mileage: 60. Total: 1,529

Listen, I shouldn’t have done 60 miles today. I should have done about 30 and gotten off the road. But if I had done that, then you wouldn’t get to see this:

Mileage 38. Temperature 104 (Fahrenheit — about 40 Celcius, for our non-American friends). I went another 22 miles, just to see if I could actually give myself heat stroke. Alas, I failed.

And that reading isn’t the worst of it. Just after I took that picture, I started pedaling again and the temp continued to rise. It jumped from 104 to 106, then 107 and 108. I thought I was hallucinating but it didn’t go any higher.

Before things heated up, Melody and I had a nice morning chatting with two college students who had pulled next to our campsite at 2 a.m. and slept in their car. The girls were going to go hiking and mountain biking in the vast Fort Robinson State Park. So instead of an early start in the relatively mild temps, we visited. We made breakfast and we talked about travel and education and life and stuff. And that delay, well, that kind of contributed to me riding in the heat, as I did.

After cruising through the first 90 minutes of the ride, I, of course, was hungry. Failing to spot a proper pie shop, I instead opted for a burger and milk shake joint, Donald’s Hamburger’s in Chadron. Good call.

Burger, chocolate shake, fries and a big lemonade. The power of positive food.

On the way to my ultimate destination, I rode beautiful rolling hills and past vast fields of what I think was wheat (a k a amber waves of grain, see: America the Beautiful, the song — fixed. Thanks, Steve Brandt). I said this with enough reservation that you ought to be able to tell that I’m a city kid. So any of you country bumpkins feel the need to correct me on the grain type, feel free to do so in comments.

America: We grow things here.

Along with the heat, I got harassed for the first time on this ride. At least, I think I was harassed. Twice, in the span of about 30 minutes, a pickup once and a car once sped past me, the driver honking his (pretty safe to gender stereotype here) horn belligerently (my interpretation) as he passed by. They were trying to “surprise me,” I guess, in a most unpleasant way. I’ve been buzzed a few times by trucks and cars, but these were intentional acts by jerky drivers. I hope it’s not a Nebraska thing. It’s a damned wide state.

The only good thing to come from it? I was so flipping angry that for a good 10-15 minutes after they passed, I raced forward hoping that I would see them again. I had devised all manner of aggressive responses to their cowardly act. I suppose, in retrospect, it was a good thing I never did catch them. It is pretty common for folks to be “carrying” out here in these parts. But I was hot. Hot and bothered. A dangerous combination on a hot biking day.

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As always, please check out our website, 55andalive.com, for more photos, videos and Melody’s take on our great adventure.